Harley Singh Grooves

[threepiston]

He's usually here or at SpeedTalk...





P.S..... If anyone is thinking of doing a 4/6 drop on a 73-87 Chevy, don't use a Mcgaughy's kit, unless you can figure it out on your own, with little to no instructions... "Use wheel "CHALKS"".. Last time I checked, they were called chocks.... "you may have to CUT the bed support.." I used two chisels to lift the bed in order to get the bed high enough to clear the C-Notch kit.... No cutting involved. Looks like someone outsourced to China, or earned a degree without knowing which way was up... The finished product turned out nice though...

[t120r]

Hmmm... I'm all ready to do my grooves, but can't seem to get it straight on my practice scrap aluminum block. Lost my access to a milling machine. Now I have to figure out a way to cut them.

[mpgmike]

I don't know where you're located, but if time is NOT of the essence, I could cut them for you. Just pay for shipping.

Mike

[t120r]

Thanks for the offer man. Really great of you. Just I would like to do them myself. I think I may be able to get near a mill at work to do it. Have to chat it up with the guys in that department tonight.

[smitty]

[quote="threepiston"]He's usually here or at SpeedTalk...(unquote)

I just did the Advanced Search for posts by Automotive Breath in Engines and Sommender's Grooves and get nothing. I'll check Speedtalk.

[Eric]

Try "automotivebreath" (one word)

[smitty]

Thanks, Eric. I've tried elsewhere with no answer, and maybe he thinks I'm pursuing him around the internet, so I've decided to forget it. If we run into each other, good; if not, that's life.

t120r, if you look at Singh's own site, and at the photos of his grooves, you can see they were NOT done on a milling machine, but were probably done with a skunk-wheel (very narrow abraisive disk) in a hand-held air-motor or side-grinder. Not particularly precise work, in fact a little rough, it seemed to me. The air doesn't know the difference. I haven't been to Singh's site in a long time; maybe he has a milling machine now. But if your hand is steady and you have some feel for what you are doing, then surely the point at which you aim the groove is going to matter a lot more than whether it is made with machine tool accuracy. Automotive Breath gave some guidlines on what he felt, after having done a bunch of engines, was a workable size range for a groove, but I don't think he or anybody else has yet "proved" anything about that or about aiming the grooves. I don't know that such things CAN be proved in such a way as to give us universal guidlines applicable to a wide range of combustion chamber shapes. Anyway, if you happen to luck out and get the aim exactly right, I can't see where you'll be hurt by a hand-made groove, and if you aim for the wrong place, a machined groove won't make it work any better, IMOH. This principle is emphatically the case for grinding on ports, esp. 2-stroke ports, and anybody who does this will tell you that size and shape and aim-point count for a whole lot more than surface finish and minor disuniformities along the way.

[t120r]

Sorry for lack of an update, but work has been crazy. I convinced management that our old Bridgeport mill is invaluble to us, so it was fixed yesterday. I'll try and groove my heads tomorrow when no one is around.