Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Hi all, here are the best plans for a home made PCV jar that is good for a 20-25% INCREASE in mileage. I knew the auther John Draper back in the early 90's. We were working on an old expired patent that just wouldn't work right. He moved a couple of times and lost track of each other. Dale Tuott Taken from KeelyNet BBS (214) 324-3501
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March 28, 1992

PCV.ASC
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This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of John Draper.
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PCV Jar

Here is a device that you can build that will improve your gas
mileage by at least 25%, and also keep your oil, engine and spark
plugs cleaner, thus allowing your engine to have a much longer life.
The device can be made for a total cost of about $12.00, and about
two hours of labor.

The device consists of a 1 quart jar, a small V8 fruit juice can or
similar container, window screen, BBs', hoses, washers and clamps.

The device is installed in between the PCV valve of your automobile
engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to.

The device condenses the oily vapors normally sucked into the
combustion chamber as part of the pollution control systems, in a
container of BBs', where the vapors condense around the BBs', and
drain into the bottom of the jar. If you can find them, use glass
beads the same size of the BBs'. I have been unable to find any,
but I know that they are made.

Blow by gases, containing gasoline vapors, are drawn back into the
engine for burning. Combustion efficiency is improved as a result
of the oily vapors collected in the jar, rather than contaminating
the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber.

Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with a wide mouth. The wide mouth
is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs' to fit in the
jar. Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid,
locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid.

Locate and cut another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the
center of the lid and the outside edge of the jar lid. At this
point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it. Try to keep
the holes neat without any excess metal protruding above or below
the lid surface.

Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts. I
use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures,
and buy it at lamp shops. Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which

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you don't want. This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is
connected. Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length.

Cut the end with the pouring hole, out of the small V8 juice can.
Wash out and dry the can. Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the
juice can. Using 1/2 inch nuts, and fender washers and silicone
gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge the holes in the washers to
fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the
V8 juice can.

Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down inside the can.
Use the fender washers on both side of the juice can to provide
support. This can will be eventually filled with BBs', and the
washers are necessary because of the weight.

Take the 1-1/2 inch length of threaded pipe, 2 nuts and some
silicone gasket sealer, and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT
the hole in the very center. Leave 2 or 3 threads of the pipe
showing on the underside of the jar lid.

Back to the juice can. Cut a piece of aluminum window screen to
neatly fit the inside of the juice can, and push it down into the
juice can, leaving no gaps for the BBs' to roll into the threaded
pipe. Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'.

Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull it over the
end of the juice can, leaving about a 1/2 inch skirt of screen.
Using a large worm gear type hose clamp, gently tighten the clamp,
snugging the screen to the outside surface of the juice can. You
have to be careful here. You want to tighten the clamp just enough
where the juice can STARTS to deform.

Install this can full of BBs' in the center hole of the jar lid,
using washers and nuts. Leave about 1/2 inch of space between the
top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to
allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar.

Install 1/2 inch elbow on both pipes protruding from the top of the
jar lid. Install a 1-1/2 inch piece of pipe into each elbow.

Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine
as follows:

o From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV
valve. If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to
secure the hose.

o From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch
section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine.

MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! ! If not, you will
know what is meant by a vacuum leak.

Now for the hardest part:

You want to locate a spot in the engine compartment to mount a 1
pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar. Try to locate a place
where the hoses can be kept as short as possible.

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Cut several holes in the bottom of the coffee can to let any water
drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have
driven through. Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between
the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around.

To make this assembly blend into the engine compartment, paint the
jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black. Consider using
hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses.

Depending on how far you drive, the jar will probably require
emptying about once a month. Vehicles which are driven short
distances and the engine never really gets up to maximum
temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week.

The jar will contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that
takes place in the oil pan. The liquid in the jar contains unburned
hydrocarbons, water and sludge. The liquid is also mildly acidic,
as a result of the water vapor and the unburned hydrocarbons,
combining. Some people have noticed a slight burning sensation, if
the liquid gets on the skin.

About every 30,000 miles or so, wash out the BBs' with varsol to
keep the passage ways open.

Your engine will stay cleaner and last much longer. Some people
have claimed they have gone 500,000 miles without a rebuild. Three
hundred thousand mile claims are common. The most mileage increase
heard, has been 40%. Twenty five percent is much more common.

You will not believe the sludge and "gunk" that builds up in the
jar. I broke an oil pump shaft in an engine with 185,000 miles on
it, and when the oil pan was pulled, there wasn't any sludge or
buildup. I installed the jar when the engine had about 72,000 miles
on it. Additionally, the emission test readings are much lower.

This is one project where you'll get a return on your money and
efforts, very quickly.

*****

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If you have comments or other information relating to such topics
as this paper covers, please upload to KeelyNet or send to the
Vangard Sciences address as listed on the first page.
Thank you for your consideration, interest and support.

Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson
Vangard Sciences/KeelyNet

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If we can be of service, you may contact
Jerry at (214) 324-8741 or Ron at (214) 242-9346
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Comments

Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Pinhead's picture

Do you have any pictures of one made??

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Dale T.'s picture

I tried to copy a picture but it would not work. Here is a picture of a similar unit. look up....http://herning.crosswinds.net/projects/PCV.html . I have not seen any vehicle get an increase in fuel mileage with this unit and they are easy to assemble. Dale

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Dale T.'s picture

Sorry, my wife caught the typo!!! I have not seen any vehicle NOT get an increase in fuel mileage with this unit and they are easy to assemble. Sorry.......Dale

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Pinhead's picture

I made one that functions exactly the same, except it uses "copper wool."

The PCV gases filter through and over the copper wool down to the bottom of the jar and the lighter hydrocarbons are sucked out of the top.

This serves the exact same function as yours does, but I haven't noticed any MPG gain. A lot of stuff is being filtered out (especially water) and there is a lot of junk being deposited on the bottom of the jar. Why do you think I'm not getting the MPG gain that you've got?

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Dale T.'s picture

Looking at your picture 1.your copper mesh is packed to tight. You need it loose, packed to tight and you restrict flow. 2. Your mesh filter is to close to the floor of the jar, it needs space between filter medium and oil collected. The fact you are getting water and oil condensation, it is working to a degree. Making filter medium out of bb's I have not seen any vehicle increase fuel mileage. Dale

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

Pinhead's picture

The mesh isn't nearly as tight as it looks. Blowing through the top of the container takes absolutely no effort; the connector itself is more of a restriction than the bottle with the mesh in it.

Dale T. wrote:

Sorry, my wife caught the typo!!! I have not seen any vehicle NOT get an increase in fuel mileage with this unit and they are easy to assemble. Sorry.......Dale

Dale T. wrote:

Making filter medium out of bb's I have not seen any vehicle increase fuel mileage. Dale

Which is it?

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

E=mc2's picture

I'm using a couple of free Condensators...on one car a definite gain...the other none so far...but it has engine control issues to sort out.

I've made the BB in a can type and the scrubber in the bottom of a mason jar type...neither gave an mpg gain.

Do know that you can't use heater hose...needs to be fuel line hose.

Even if they don't give you an mpg gain they are worth it as far as cleaning up the engine.

You can make the scubber in a jar type for next to nothing...but I wouldn't put a lot into anything more.

I'd try 1/2" ID hose and 1/4" ID right angle fittings into the top of a quart jar....with some scrubber material suspended above the bottom?

Check the various patents to see what they are trying to do?

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

mpgmike's picture

If you need petrochemical compatible hose in heater hose sizes, check with your local Hydro-Hose for Push Lock hose. It has a high temperature rating, is compatible with water, alcohol, and petrochemical fuels and oils.

Mike

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Plans for a home made PCV jar like a Condensator.

SyntheticShield's picture

I would love to take advantage of some of the PCV catch cans Ive seen in this forum, but blasted GM put the friggin PCV inside the supercharger and there are no hoses whatsoever going to it, its all routed through passages in the Throttle body, lower intake manifold and the supercharger.

It took me FOREVER to find where the thing was cause I kept looking for the hoses that connect to such things in a normal car.

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